The Food in Jars Kitchen Read online

Page 3


  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Apple, peach, cherry, or blueberry pie filling are my favorite options, but low-sugar, chunky fruit preserves will also work.

  MO’S FAMOUS PANCAKE MIX

  MAKES 8½ CUPS/ABOUT 1 KG DRY MIX

  When I was growing up, my mom did the bulk of the cooking. My dad’s contributions were limited to holiday foods, things cooked on our ancient charcoal-burning hibachi, and Saturday morning pancakes. He worked at IHOP in the early 1970s and hated their white, doughy stacks that left you hungry an hour after eating. He spent years perfecting his own basic pancake mix so that the resulting cakes would be fluffy and filling in a way that those IHOP pancakes were not. For most of my childhood, he would mix up seven or eight batches of pancake mix in the weeks before Christmas, portion it out into containers, and give it to our friends and neighbors. It became so beloved in our community that we started calling it Mo’s Famous.

  3 cups/360 g all-purpose flour

  2 cups/225 g whole wheat flour

  1½ cups/170 g toasted wheat germ (I like Kretchmer’s honey-toasted)

  1 cup/140 g fine cornmeal

  ¾ cup/150 g granulated sugar

  3 tablespoons baking powder

  1 tablespoon fine sea salt

  FOR 16 TO 18 PANCAKES

  2 tablespoons neutral oil, plus more for griddle

  3 large eggs

  1 cup/240 ml milk, plus more as needed

  2 cups/200 g pancake mix

  Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and gently whisk to combine. Store the mix in a large, airtight container. To extend the life span of the mix, store it in the fridge or freezer.

  To cook: Preheat a lightly oiled griddle over medium heat.

  Beat the eggs together in a medium bowl until fully blended, and then whisk in the milk and oil. Fold in the dry mix. If it seems too thick, add a splash more milk.

  To tell when the griddle has reached a proper temperature, flick a little water onto the griddle from your fingertips. If the water dances in little balls, the griddle is ready.

  Spoon about ¼ cup/60 ml of batter onto the griddle; this will make pancakes that are about 4 inches/10 cm in diameter and they will flip and cook more evenly. Cook until bubbles form around the edges of the pancake, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook for another 45 to 90 seconds on the other side, or until golden brown all over. Serve buttered and topped with jam.

  Note: I sometimes like to fill these pancakes with jam as they cook. To do that, ladle the batter onto the griddle and immediately spoon a small pool of jam into the middle of each pancake. Cover the jam with a thin layer of batter. Flip as normal and cook for an additional 15 to 30 seconds on the second side to ensure that the extra batter cooks thoroughly.

  PANCAKE SAUCE

  Combine 1 cup/240 ml) of jam with 2 tablespoons of salted butter in a small saucepan. Warm gently over medium heat until the butter melts and combines with the jam. Once it begins to bubble around the edges, I like to add a tablespoon of bourbon. Stir to combine and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes to cook off the alcohol. If you plan on serving to both kids and adults, it’s nice to make one batch with booze and another without.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Any jam, fruit preserve, or fruit butter makes a nice topper for pancakes. For special occasions, I like to warm the jam with some melted better and a splash of bourbon (recipe follows).

  KIMCHI MATZO BREI

  SERVES 1 AND CAN BE EASILY DOUBLED

  Matzo brei is a dish made from softened matzo, egg, and butter. It’s a staple of Jewish home cooking, particularly during the eight days of Passover. However, it’s a tasty dish no matter the time of year or your religious affiliation, and it is an easy thing to stir together when you’re running low on groceries. The pieces of matzo get tender and just a little chewy as they cook, the kimchi provides heat and freshness, and the eggs hold it all together.

  1 sheet plain matzo

  2 large eggs

  ½ cup/125 g kimchi, drained and chopped

  1 tablespoon salted butter

  Place a sieve or colander in the sink and break the sheet of matzo into it. You’re going for pieces of about 1 inch/2.5 cm in size. Run water over the matzo pieces for 15 to 30 seconds (the amount of water depends on how brittle the matzo is) so that they soften but aren’t totally saturated. Let the matzo drain.

  Beat the eggs in a small bowl and add the softened matzo. Add the chopped kimchi and stir to combine.

  Place the butter in a small, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Once it foams, add the egg mixture and cook, stirring, until the eggs are cooked to your liking. Tip the finished brei onto a plate and serve immediately.

  Note: While I prefer my matzo brei savory, a sweetened version topped with jam or maple syrup is also traditional. If this direction sounds good to you, leave out the kimchi and proceed as directed, finishing with a drizzle or dollop of something sweet.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  As the title of the recipe implies, I typically make this with kimchi, but it’s also good with sauerkraut.

  SAUERKRAUT FRITTATA

  SERVES 4

  Sauerkraut and eggs have long been one of my favorite combinations. I often heap a pile of kraut on a plate, top it with a couple of fried eggs, and call it good. When there are more diners to feed or I simply want to up my game, I call on this frittata. It is endlessly flexible, can be served for any meal, and reheats beautifully. In the summer, I often swap cubed zucchini in for the potato for a lighter and more garden-centric version. I like to serve wedges of this frittata with lashings of tomato jam or hot sauce.

  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  ½ yellow onion, finely diced

  1 cup/150 g diced white potato (aim for ½-inch/1.25 cm dice)

  1 cup/240 ml water, plus more as needed

  1 cup/200 g drained Basic Sauerkraut (here)

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  6 large eggs, beaten

  Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C.

  Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch/25 cm nonstick, oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they begin to brown. Add the potato and water. Lower the heat to medium, cover the pan, and let the potato cook for 8 to 10 minutes, checking occasionally, until the potato is tender and the water has evaporated. If there’s some residual water, uncover the pan and let it boil off. If the water boils off before the potato is tender, add a splash more.

  Once the potato is soft, add the sauerkraut, salt, and pepper and stir to combine. Evenly spread out the ingredients in the pan and add the eggs. Using a silicone spatula, work the beaten eggs into the vegetable mixture and give the pan a gentle wiggle to help it settle.

  Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the top puffs and turns light brown. Switch your oven to the BROIL setting and broil for 1 to 2 minutes, to brown the top of the frittata.

  Remove the pan from the oven and let the frittata cool for a minute or two. Slide a silicone spatula around the edges of the pan to loosen the eggs. Transfer the frittata onto a large cutting board and slice into wedges.

  Serve hot or warm.

  Note: If you have leftover roasted potatoes in the fridge, feel free to use those here.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Any stripe of sauerkraut works well here. I particularly like using one that has a lot of added garlic, for an extra-zippy frittata.

  Jammy Granola

  Of all the ideas I’ve shared over the years designed to help move jams and fruit butters out of their jars, this one might be my favorite. The concept is that instead of using liquid sweetener and spices to coat your oats and nuts before baking, you toss them with a slurry of sweet preserve and just a touch of oil or melted butter before baking.

  BASIC JAMMY GRANOLA

  MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/400 TO 500 G GRANOLA
<
br />   If you are looking for ways to use the odds and ends of jam you’ve got in the fridge, this open-ended recipe will be perfect for you.

  ¾ cup/180 ml jam

  ¼ cup/60 ml neutral oil or melted butter

  2 cups/200 g rolled oats

  ¾ cup/90 g chopped raw nuts

  ¾ cup/120 g seeds (such as flax, sesame, hemp, chia, or poppy)

  ½ teaspoon flaky finishing salt

  ½ cup/90 g dried fruit or chopped crystallized ginger

  Preheat the oven to 325°F/163°C and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Combine the jam and oil in a measuring cup. If the jam is very chunky, give it a quick purée with an immersion blender. If it is very stiff and hard to mix, microwave the mixture in 5-second increments on HIGH until soft enough to stir and spread.

  In a large bowl, combine the oats, nuts, and seeds. Pour in the jam mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are well integrated.

  Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring at least twice during baking, for 20 to 25 minutes. The granola is done when it has taken on a deep golden color, smells fragrant, and is no longer visibly moist, though it won’t look completely dry until it is fully cool.

  Remove the granola from the oven and sprinkle on the salt while the granola is still hot. Stir in the dried fruit and let cool completely on the baking sheet. Once it is entirely cool, funnel it into an airtight jar or food storage container. It will keep in the pantry for up to 2 weeks. For longer-term storage, keep the finished granola in the refrigerator.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Any slightly runny jam or jelly works here. If the preserve you’re using is very chunky, I recommend puréeing it to help smooth it out.

  PEANUT AND BERRY JAM GRANOLA

  MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/400 TO 500 G GRANOLA

  This version is one of my favorites to serve to kids (and if I know in advance that they can’t have peanuts, I’ll make a version with all-sunflower products). The flavors are familiar and go really well with vanilla yogurt or milk.

  ¾ cup/180 ml berry jam

  ¼ cup/60 ml peanut oil

  2 cups/200 g rolled oats

  ¾ cup/90 g chopped raw peanuts

  ¾ cup/120 g raw sunflower seeds

  ½ teaspoon flaky finishing salt

  ½ cup/70 g dried strawberries or blueberries

  Preheat the oven to 325°F/163°C and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Combine the jam and oil in a measuring cup. If the jam is very chunky, give it a quick purée with an immersion blender. If it is very stiff and hard to mix, microwave the mixture in 5-second increments on HIGH until soft enough to stir and spread.

  In a large bowl, combine the oats, peanuts, and sunflower seeds. Pour in the jam mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are well integrated.

  Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring at least twice during baking. The granola is done when it has taken on a deep golden color, smells fragrant, and is no longer visibly moist, though it won’t look completely dry until it is fully cool.

  Remove the granola from the oven and sprinkle on the salt while the granola is still hot. Stir in the dried berries and let cool completely on the baking sheet. Once it is entirely cool, funnel it into an airtight jar or food storage container. It will keep in the pantry for up to 2 weeks. For longer-term storage, keep the finished granola in the refrigerator.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Strawberry, raspberry, and blueberry jams are all good here.

  MARMALADE AND MIXED NUT GRANOLA

  MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/400 TO 500 G GRANOLA

  This is a really good granola for snacking and works beautifully as a topping for big green salads (it’s even better if you mirror the flavors by adding segmented oranges or clementines to the salad). It’s also a nice one to tuck into holiday gift baskets.

  ¾ cup/180 ml orange marmalade

  ¼ cup/60 ml melted unsalted butter

  2 cups/200 g rolled oats

  ¾ cup/90 g chopped mixed raw nuts

  ¾ cup/120 g pumpkin seeds

  ½ teaspoon flaky finishing salt

  ½ cup/90 g chopped candied citrus peel

  Preheat the oven to 325°F/163°C and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Combine the marmalade and melted butter in a measuring cup. If the marmalade is very chunky, give it a quick purée with an immersion blender. If it is very stiff and hard to mix, microwave the mixture in 5-second increments on HIGH until soft enough to stir and spread.

  In a large bowl, combine the oats, nuts, and seeds. Pour in the marmalade mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are well integrated.

  Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring at least twice during baking. The granola is done when it has taken on a deep golden color, smells fragrant, and is no longer visibly moist, though it won’t look completely dry until it is fully cool.

  Remove the granola from the oven and sprinkle on the salt while the granola is still hot. Stir in the candied peel and let cool completely on the baking sheet. Once it is entirely cool, funnel it into an airtight jar or food storage container. It will keep in the pantry for up to 2 weeks. For longer-term storage, keep the finished granola in the refrigerator.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Orange marmalade is really great here (if you don’t have any homemade, Bonne Maman makes a tasty one), but you can also use lemon or lime.

  PEAR, GINGER, AND WALNUT GRANOLA

  MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/400 TO 500 G GRANOLA

  This is the granola I make in the fall when the weather cools and the days shorten. I like to layer it with plain yogurt and slices of fresh pear for a tasty, autumnal parfait.

  ¾ cup/180 ml pear jam

  ¼ cup/60 ml sunflower oil

  2 cups/200 g rolled oats

  1½ cups/180 g raw chopped walnuts

  ½ teaspoon flaky finishing salt

  ½ cup/90 g chopped crystallized ginger

  Preheat the oven to 325°F/163°C and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Combine the jam and oil in a measuring cup. If the jam is very chunky, give it a quick purée with an immersion blender. If it is very stiff and hard to mix, microwave the mixture in 5-second increments on high until soft enough to stir and spread.

  In a large bowl, combine the oats and nuts. Pour in the jam mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are well integrated.

  Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring the granola at least twice during baking. The granola is done when it has taken on a deep golden color, smells fragrant, and is no longer visibly moist, though it won’t look completely dry until it is fully cool.

  Remove the granola from the oven and sprinkle on the salt while the granola is still hot. Stir in the crystallized ginger and let cool completely on the baking sheet. Once it is entirely cool, funnel it into an airtight jar or food storage container. It will keep in the pantry for up to 2 weeks. For longer-term storage, keep the finished granola in the refrigerator.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Pear jam is my favorite here, but if you don’t have that in your pantry, apple or pumpkin butter is a delicious alternative.

  TOMATO JAM AND SMOKED PAPRIKA GRANOLA

  MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/400 TO 500 G GRANOLA

  The first time I tasted savory granola, I nearly lost my mind. Since then, I’ve made it many times and lean on it heavily whenever I need to add crunch and umami to puréed soups, salads, and roasted vegetables.

  ¾ cup/180 ml Tomato Jam (here)

  ¼ cup/60 ml extra-virgin olive oil

  1 tablespoon smoked paprika

  2 cups/200 g rolled oats

  1 cup/120 g raw chopped almonds

  ½ cup/80 g mixed sesame and poppy seeds

  1 teaspoon flaky finishing salt

  ½ cup/90 g dried cherry tomatoes

  Prehe
at the oven to 325°F/163°C and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Combine the jam and oil in a measuring cup. If the jam is very chunky, give it a quick purée with an immersion blender. If it is very stiff and hard to mix, microwave the mixture in 5-second increments on HIGH until soft enough to stir and spread. Stir the smoked paprika into the jam mixture.

  In a large bowl, combine the oats, almonds, and seeds. Pour in the jam mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are well integrated.

  Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring the granola at least twice during baking. The granola is done when it has taken on a deep golden color, smells fragrant, and is no longer visibly moist, though it won’t look completely dry until it is fully cool.

  Remove the granola from the oven and sprinkle on the salt while the granola is still hot. Stir in the dried tomatoes and let it cool completely on the baking sheet. Once it is entirely cool, funnel it into an airtight jar or food storage container. It will keep in the pantry for up to 2 weeks. For longer-term storage, keep the finished granola in the refrigerator.