The Food in Jars Kitchen Read online

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  If you don’t have applesauce, try this one with any other unsweetened fruit sauce. Pear is particularly good. If your sauce is sweetened, reduce the sugar in the batter by ¼ cup.

  POPUNDERS

  MAKES 12 POPUNDERS

  One of the fun things about traditional popovers is that they fill with airy compartments as they bake. But no one needs yet another popover recipe. Instead, I offer my childhood recipe for popunders. These custardy cups don’t achieve the same height as their lofty cousins, but in exchange they are the perfect vehicle for preserves both sweet and savory. They also reheat better and can be made in mini-muffin tins and filled. They are especially great as part of an appetizer menu, filled with savory items, such as small spoonfuls of chutney and a few crumbles of cheese.

  Nonstick spray, for muffin pan

  1 cup/240 ml whole milk

  2 large eggs

  1 cup/120 g all-purpose flour

  ¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

  ¼ cup/60 ml jam or chutney

  Spray a 12-cup muffin pan thoroughly with nonstick spray.

  Combine the milk, eggs, flour, and salt in a blender and purée until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping the sides down once. Divide the batter evenly in the prepared muffin pan. Each cavity will be about a third of the way full.

  Place the muffin pan in a cold oven and set it to 450°F/232°C. Bake until they brown and puff up a bit, 18 to 22 minutes. Try not to open the oven too often to check them, as it slows down the baking time. They should remain concave in the center, but if they do puff all over, know that they will settle back down.

  Popunders (and popovers) are best served warm, so plan on serving these as soon as they come out of the oven. If you do have leftovers, they are best reheated in a toaster oven.

  If you’re serving them all at once, fill each concave center with about 1 teaspoon of jam. If they’ve puffed more than you’d like, press the centers down with a spoon before filling.

  Note: For more traditional popovers with airy lift, preheat the oven prior to baking and divide the batter between just 8 muffin or popover cavities in an oiled, straight-sided muffin pan.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Jam or fruit butter. Really anything goes here.

  JAM-FILLED BISCUITS

  MAKES 8 BISCUITS

  These jam-filled biscuits are my version of the ones I used to get at Grand Central Baking in my much younger days. It’s an artisanal bakery that started in Seattle and opened its Portland shop during my freshman year of high school. Whenever my friends and I headed for Hawthorne Boulevard to visit Escentials and Buffalo Exchange, we’d end our trip with a treat from Grand Central.

  3 cups/360 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

  1 cup/110 g whole wheat flour

  3 tablespoons granulated sugar

  2 teaspoons baking powder

  1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

  1 teaspoon baking soda

  8 ounces/225 g cold, unsalted butter, cut into small squares

  1¼ cups/300 ml buttermilk, divided

  ¾ cup/180 ml jam

  Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

  Place the flours, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Stir to combine.

  Add the butter to the bowl. Run the mixer on medium speed, just until the butter begins to combine with the flour mixture and the flour mixture starts to look sandy. You want some larger chunks of butter to still remain.

  With the mixer off, pour 1 cup/240 ml of buttermilk into the center of the dough mixture. Run the mixer on low speed until the dough begins to come together. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the walls of the bowl and bring the dough together. Add the final ¼ cup/60 ml of buttermilk and run the mixer on low speed again, until the dough incorporates all the liquid. It should be both a little sticky and still have some floury patches. Remember that with all biscuits, the goal is to mix as little as possible to bring the dough together.

  Lightly dust your work surface with flour and turn out the dough onto it. Flour your hands and gently work the dough into a large, rough rectangle that’s about ½ inch/1.25 cm thick. Using a bench scraper, fold the dough in thirds and pat it into a rectangle that is about 1½ inches/3.8 cm thick and 8 × 5 inches/20 × 13 cm. Cut the dough into 8 square biscuits, using a very sharp knife. This helps with portioning and keeps you from having to reroll the dough and make it tough.

  Carefully make hollows in the biscuits with your thumb and pointer finger, gently pulling the sides up a little to work the jam well into the center of the dough. Do your best not to compress the flaky layers along the sides of the biscuits, because you want them to rise up and help maintain the jam well as the biscuits bake. Spoon a scant tablespoon of jam into each hollow.

  Place the pan on the center rack of the oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. I like to rotate the pan halfway through baking to ensure that they brown evenly. The jam-filled biscuits are done when they’ve puffed up a bit, the edges are deeply burnished, and the jam is bubbling but hasn’t started to burn.

  Remove from the oven and eat as soon as the jam has cooled enough that it won’t scorch your fingertips. Store any leftovers in an airtight container on your countertop for up to 3 days. To refresh day-old biscuits, toast for 2 to 3 minutes.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Strawberry, raspberry, and apricot are my favorites to use here, although any well-set jam can be used.

  BASIC JAM-STREAKED SCONES

  MAKES 8 SCONES

  Some say that the scone is the ideal vehicle for jam. And while I agree, I also believe it to be even better when one is able to tuck the jam right into the scone itself. There are two good ways to weave the jam into the dough, though both are a little messy.

  In the first method, you divide the dough into two equal portions. You place the first portion on a flour-dusted countertop and roll it out into a circle that is roughly 10 inches/25 cm in diameter. You top that circle with jam and spread out the jam, leaving a narrow perimeter of bare dough around the edges. Then, you roll out the second round to about the same size and plonk it on top. Press the edges together, cut it into wedges, pop them onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, and into the oven they go.

  In the second method, roll out the entirety of the dough into a large sheet, spread the jam across the center of the sheet, and then fold the edges into the middle. Flatten gently with a rolling pin, and then the same cutting, transferring, and baking applies.

  Note: I typically default to the second technique more than the first because it’s generally quicker and I find that with a little practice, it ends up containing the jam a little better. However, the first technique is a bit neater, so if you hate making a mess of your countertops, it might be the approach for you.

  2 cups/240 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  1 tablespoon baking powder

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  6 tablespoons/85 g cold, unsalted butter

  1 large egg

  ½ to ⅔ cup/120 to 160 ml milk, buttermilk, yogurt, or heavy whipping cream

  ⅓ to ½ cup/80 to 120 ml jam

  Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicone baking mat.

  Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

  Cut the butter into small pieces and add it to the bowl. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the flour mixture, until the flour mixture is pebbly with the butter.

  Beat the egg in a small bowl and add ½ cup/120 ml of the milk. Gently work the wet ingredients into the dry with a fork or wooden spoon. Add more liquid, a tablespoon at a time, as needed. You want the dough to be dry enough that you can pat it out and move it, but not so dry that it doesn’t hold together. Dust your countertop with flour and roll o
ut your dough (see headnote to determine which approach you want to take to fill your scones). Fill with the jam of your choosing. If your jam is quite thick, you will want to use a larger portion than if it is runny. Cut the scones into 8 wedges and transfer them to the lined baking sheet.

  Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the tops are nicely browned and the scones have achieved some lift. Serve hot.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  The world is your oyster here. Just about any sweet or savory jam or chutney will work nicely. I like to use something that’s on the higher end of the sugar content spectrum, because there’s but a scant measure of sugar in the dough.

  GINGER MARMALADE SCONES

  MAKES 8 SCONES

  Although UK residents wouldn’t recognize these as traditional scones, they have a decidedly British feel to my American palate. I like to serve them with a strong pot of black tea and more marmalade for topping.

  2 cups/240 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  1 tablespoon baking powder

  1 teaspoon ground ginger

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  6 tablespoons/85 g cold, unsalted butter

  1 large egg

  ½ cup/120 ml buttermilk, plus more as needed

  ⅓ cup/80 ml orange or lemon marmalade

  2 tablespoons diced crystallized ginger

  Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicone baking mat.

  Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, ginger, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

  Cut the butter into small pieces and add it to the bowl. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the flour mixture, until the flour mixture is pebbly with the butter.

  Beat the egg in a small bowl and add the buttermilk. Gently work the wet ingredients into the dry with a fork or wooden spoon. Add more liquid, a tablespoon at a time, as needed. You want the dough to be dry enough that you can pat it out and move it, but not so dry that it doesn’t hold together. Roll out and fill the scones using your technique of choice (see headnote, here). Evenly distribute the crystalized ginger on top of the jam before closing the scones.

  Cut the scones into 8 wedges and transfer them to the lined baking sheet.

  Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the tops are nicely browned and the scones have achieved some lift.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  Classic, thick-cut orange marmalade is great here, as are more esoteric ones, such as kumquat or blood orange.

  PEACH WALNUT CREAM SCONES

  MAKES 12 SCONES

  I think of these scones as the perfect offering for wedding and baby showers. They go well with coffee and mimosas, making them good for both brunch and later day gatherings. Keeping those more dainty events in mind, I like to cut these scones into 12 portions rather than 8, as it makes for a more delicate presentation.

  2 cups/240 g all-purpose flour

  ¼ cup/30 g finely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  1 tablespoon baking powder

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  6 tablespoons/85 g cold, unsalted butter

  1 large egg

  ⅔ cup/160 ml heavy whipping cream, plus more as needed

  Place the flour, walnuts, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

  Cut the butter into small pieces and add it to the bowl. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the flour mixture, until the flour mixture is pebbly with the butter.

  Beat the egg and add the cream. Gently work the wet ingredients into the dry with a fork or wooden spoon. Add more liquid, a tablespoon at a time, as needed. You want the dough to be dry enough that you can pat it out and move it, but not so dry that it doesn’t hold together. Roll out and fill the scones using your technique of choice (see headnote, here). Cut the scones into 12 wedges and transfer them to the lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the tops are nicely browned and the scones have achieved some lift.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  These are best with peach jam or slightly chunkier peach preserves, but they also work nicely with jams made from nectarines and cherries.

  TOMATO CHEDDAR SCONES

  MAKES 12 SCONES

  These savory filled scones are my favorite thing to serve alongside a bowl of hearty soup on chilly nights. They’re also a really nice item to make for new parents, who often need a quick, handheld snack that isn’t bursting with sugar.

  2 cups/240 g all-purpose flour

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  1 tablespoon baking powder

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  4 tablespoons/55 g cold, unsalted butter

  2 ounces/60 g shredded Cheddar cheese

  1 large egg

  ½ cup/120 ml milk, plus more as needed

  ½ cup/120 ml Tomato Jam (here)

  Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicone baking mat.

  Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

  Cut the butter into small pieces and add it to the bowl. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the flour mixture, until the flour mixture is pebbly with the butter. Add the shredded cheese and work that in as well.

  Beat the egg in a small bowl and add the milk. Gently work the wet ingredients into the dry with a fork or wooden spoon. Add more liquid, a tablespoon at a time, as needed. You want the dough to be dry enough that you can pat it out and move it, but not so dry that it doesn’t hold together.

  Roll out and fill the scones using your technique of choice (see headnote, here). Cut the scones into 8 wedges and transfer them to the lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the tops are nicely browned and the scones have achieved some lift.

  RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:

  I love these with Tomato Jam (here), but they also work well with apple chutney (see here) or onion jam.

  FILLED CRÊPES

  MAKES TWELVE FILLED 8-INCH/20 CM CRÊPES

  During my childhood summers, we often spent two to three weeks with my grandparents in Philadelphia. Part of the pleasure of those trips was the food. Tutu and Grandpa Sid said yes to nearly every request we made, and so my sister and I got such treats as sugary cereals, water ice, and Pop-Tarts, all things my mom would never buy. They also always had boxes of fruit-filled blintzes in the freezer that Grandpa Sid would fry in butter and serve with a dollop of sour cream. This recipe produces filled crêpes that are very much like those blintzes, but designed to be easy to prepare ahead of time and serve to a crowd.

  ¾ cup/90 g all-purpose flour

  2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

  1 teaspoon baking powder

  ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

  1 cup/240 ml milk

  2 large eggs

  ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

  3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

  2 cups/480 ml pie filling or chunky fruit preserves

  Sour cream or Greek yogurt, for serving

  Place the flour, confectioners’ sugar, baking powder, and salt in a blender container and pulse to combine. Add the milk, eggs, and vanilla and purée to combine.

  Let the batter rest for at least 30 minutes before cooking. You can also make it the night before and stash it in a covered jar in the fridge.

  When you’re ready to cook, brush the bottom of a 13 × 9-inch/32 × 23 cm baking pan with some of the melted butter.

  Heat an 8-inch/20 cm nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brush the pan with a little bit of the melted butter and pour in a scant ¼ cup/55 ml of the batter. Tilt and swivel the pan so that the batter spreads evenly over the bottom and lower sides of the pan.

  Let the crêpe cook until the batter is set and doesn’t look at all drippy and the edges begin to pull away from the sides of the pan. This will take 2 to 3 minutes for the first couple of crêpes, and just 60 to
90 seconds as the pan heats up.

  Carefully run a thin spatula around the edges of the crêpe to loosen it from the pan and flip it. Let it cook for 15 to 30 seconds on this side. Lift the crêpe out of the pan and onto a plate. Brush the pan again with butter, add another ¼ cup/55 ml of batter, and cook. Repeat this process until all the batter has been used.

  As the crêpes cook, lay a finished crêpe on your work surface and spread about 1½ tablespoons of the filling in a line down the middle of the crêpe. Roll up the crêpe around the filling into a tight cylinder and place, seam-side down, in the buttered dish (the crêpe you’re currently cooking should be ready to flip now). It will look as if you’re building a pan of pale enchiladas.

  Once all the crêpes are cooked, filled, and lined up in the baking dish, pour the remaining melted butter over the rolled crêpes. At this point, you can either cover them and refrigerate them for up to 24 hours before serving or broil them immediately. If you do decide to make them in advance, remove the pan from the fridge about an hour before broiling to ensure that they reheat properly.

  Just before serving, place the baking dish under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes, just until they turn golden brown and the butter sizzles.

  Serve immediately, topped with a dollop of sour cream or Greek yogurt.